Rose Bush

Seasonal Pest & Disease Calendar

• Clusters of soft-bodied insects on buds and tender new growth
• Curled/distorted leaves; sticky honeydew (sometimes ants)
• Strong water spray knocks them off (repeat as needed)
• Usually cosmetic unless new growth is heavily distorted
• Fine yellow stippling/speckling on leaves; bronzing in heat
• Leaf drop during hot, dry periods; sometimes fine webbing (heavy infestations)
• Hose undersides of leaves during hot spells (reduces mites + dust)
• Reduce drought stress (deep watering + mulch)
• Miticides only if mites are confirmed and damage is spreading
• Chewed petals and ragged holes in leaves; leaves may be “skeletonized”
• Beetles often visible on blooms in mid-summer
• Hand-pick into soapy water early morning when beetles are sluggish
• Avoid spraying open blooms when pollinators are active
• If needed, use labeled products and follow timing; repeated heavy feeding warrants action
• Black circular spots with fringed edges; yellowing around spots
• Premature leaf drop starting on lower leaves
• Water at the base; avoid overhead irrigation
• Improve airflow (thin, don’t crowd); prune for structure
• Rake and discard infected leaves; sanitize pruners
• Fungicides are most effective preventatively when disease is chronic
• White/gray “powder” on leaf surfaces and young shoots
• Leaves may twist or curl; growth can look stunted
• Improve airflow; avoid excess nitrogen
• Morning sun + afternoon shade is fine, but avoid dense shade
• Fungicides optional; best used early if it’s a repeating problem
• Orange/rust-colored pustules (often on undersides of leaves)
• Yellow spotting on top of leaves; defoliation if severe
• Remove infected leaves early; do not compost if heavily diseased
• Water at base; keep foliage dry when possible
• Canes fail to leaf out or leaf out weakly in spring
• Dead tips; stems uniformly brown and dry
• Wait until spring green-up, then prune back to healthy green wood
• Mulch 2–3" over root zone (keep off canes/crown)
• Winter water during warm, dry spells when soil is not frozen

• Spring prune: remove dead wood; open center for airflow (species/type-specific)
• Check overwintered canes for dieback; prune to healthy wood
• Water during warm, dry spells if soil is dry
• Watch new growth for aphids and early disease spots
• Treat aphids only if distortion builds
• If black spot is chronic, begin preventative sprays per label
• Keep moisture consistent as heat ramps up; mulch helps
• Scout weekly for mites and early powdery mildew
• Remove diseased leaves; avoid overhead watering
• Watch for Japanese beetles and spider mites
• Treat mites early if stippling spreads; beetle control if heavy feeding persists
• Deep watering during heat; avoid drought stress
• Rake/remove fallen leaves (especially if black spot/rust present)
• Deep watering before soil freeze
• Light cleanup pruning only; save major pruning for spring
• Winter watering during warm spells (especially exposed sites)
• No pesticide treatments needed

• Major defoliation from black spot/rust year after year
• Severe spider mite damage with bronzing and leaf drop in summer
• Canes repeatedly dying back each winter (plant/site not hardy or stressed)
• Light aphids with minimal distortion
• Mild powdery mildew late summer
• Small amount of late-season spotting without early defoliation